France.com

What backlash? Diners say oui to French cuisine

French eateries in the Los Angeles area — from $100-a-plate haute cuisine to $20 bistros — seem to be emerging as the next big dining trend, an industry consultant says.

“Anti-French feelings may be high,” says Ron Paul, president of Technomic, a restaurant consulting firm. “But the palate doesn’t play politics. French dining is doing very, very well.”

Sure, the nation’s politics swung anti-French last year when France loudly protested the Iraq war. Sales of French wine hit the skids.

So did business at some French restaurants. But a surprising number of them, particularly on the West Coast, have entered 2004 standing taller than the Eiffel Tower.

Behind this: diners’ growing desire for variety, particularly international fare. In a nation seemingly overrun with Italian and Southwestern outlets, there’s actually a dearth of French fare, Paul says.

“We don’t really need another Italian restaurant, do we?” he asks.

Voilà! Here come the French — Southern California-style:

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