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Saint-Malo

France.com

Located on the Emerald Coast, in the Ille-et-Villaine department (one of the four Brittany has), Saint-Malo is a romantic city dedicated to the sea. Once an island, enclosed within granite ramparts that remained intact for centuries, in spite of the highest tide coefficient in Europe, the old city is still alive. Built in the 12th century, directly on the rocks, the walls were modified in the 18th century, enlarged to offer a better protection.
Saint-Malo bares the name of “City of Corsairs”, the feared and fierce pirates appointed by the King of France to loot British and Dutch ships across the Channel.

Famous privateers like Duguay-Trouin or Surcouf contributed to make the city rich. The second source of revenues came from the development of trade with Indies, and after Jacques Cartier discovered Canada, new maritime trade was established. From 16th to 18th century, prosperity grew, until the French Revolution. The rich citizens, most of them ship owners, built impressive mansions called “malouinières”. Even after the Revolution, Saint-Malo continues to develop fishing in high seas and especially around Newfoundland where cod was found in abundance.

In the 19th and 20th centuries, tourism is the number one resource of the city. But during WWII, the allies, apparently misinformed, bomb it, destroying almost entirely the old town. But the enclosed city was rebuilt identically. Today, the citadel looks like it always did: a granite ship with medieval towers as a figurehead, and interlacing alleys in its belly.

Saint-Malo is now a major resort (it hosts of the largest marinas in France) as well as an important fishing and trading harbour. Mont Saint Michel is only one hour’s drive, so it is really worth a detour. You could start with the ramparts walk, where the view on the Coast of Emerald is mind-blowing, this will take two hours. Then go to the Dungeon which contains a museum recounting the saga of the greatest sailors from Saint-Malo. Around the dungeon is the castle originally built by the Dukes of Brittany.  And to complete your visit, you can go to the giant aquarium, children love it.

After a much needed stop in a “creperie”, where you can have a crepe with all kinds of ingredients, and a “bolee” of cider, you can drive across the river Rance on the biggest tidal power station in the world, and arrive in Dinard. What a contrast this town offers with its rival neighbour! One is severe and rough, lashed by waves, while the later is pure softness, with nice windless beaches, pine trees and…palm trees.

The Gulf Stream is not far away, and the gentle climate was very appealing to the English aristocratic world in the 1830’s.  Agatha Christies and Pablo Picasso loved this “Northern Nice”, and they were not the only ones: it was, at a time, the most famous sea resort in Europe. When the wealthy clientele deserted Dinard for French Riviera, they left 407 mansions, reflecting prosperity in different architectural styles, Norman, gothic or Art Nouveau. All these villas are now listed as heritage sites, and protected against any attempt to change the landscape.

A wonderful place to relax, have another bowl of cider (alcohol content is not very high) and maybe some oysters, this is Brittany after all. By the way, the name Dinard comes from the legendary King Arthur and Celtic language: DIN, meaning hill, and ARZ/AR, meaning Bear/Arthur (in Celtic mythology, bears represent sovereignty).
If you enjoy eating mollusks, go to Cancale, the oyster village: you will find countless oyster bars and restaurants on the little harbour’s wharf, and eating one or two dozens at sunset with a glass of white wine is a real treat.
Debret ga’ yec’hed! (Bon appétit!)

 

Access

By train

Saint-Malo’s train station is located over a kilometer south of the intramuros area, but it’s an easy 20-min walk straight down Avenue Louis Martin. There are a few direct TGV services daily from Paris (Gare de Montparnasse), which take about three hours. Most travellers, however, will end up connecting in Rennes, from where there are hourly commuter services (50 min, €12) to Saint-Malo.

By Ferry

From the UK you can arrive from Poole and Weymouth on Condor Ferries. Leaving from Portsmouth with Brittany Ferries. From Jersey & Guernsey you can take HD Ferries. Leaving from Jersey, it takes about 1 hour, Guernsey sailings go via Jersey, or Condor Ferries which offers direct routes from both islands.

By bus

There are two buses daily to Pontorson (line 17, 1 hour, €2,5), which depart from the train station and stop at the city walls. The buses are timed to connect to onward buses to Mont Saint Michel (15 min, €2), allowing a fairly comfortable day-trip.

 

Transports

Saint-Malo has a good bus system, with the main terminals located at the train station and just outside the walls(St Vincent). Get a booklet with maps and times from any bus driver. A one and a half hour ticket costs €1.05. Unfortunately there are no bus services late in the evening.

The walled city is easily covered on foot, but you can also opt for a dinky “Tourist Train” that takes you and your wallet for a ride (€5.50).

 

Activities and Sightseeing

 

 

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Shopping

La cale aux trésors 2 passage de la grande hermine, intra-muros. website French delicatessen shop.Wineshop.

 

Restaurants

Saint-Malo is a great place to sample Breton specialties.

The Intramuros area has what is quite possibly France’s highest concentration of creperies and seafood restaurants. Most cater solely to tourists and are effectively identical.

 

Nightlife

Brittany is not a renowned region for its wine. Otherwise, there are other specialities:

Lodging

There are many accommodation options in Saint-Malo, including over 20 hotels within the walls, but they can fill up very fast in season — book ahead.

See the Listing of the Hotels in Saint-Malo

 

Surrounding

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