Description
Reims
Reims, the home of Champagne,is the principal city of Marne Champagnes (department 51.)It is a charming city, and one that the French hold dear to their hearts. It was the home of a Gothic Cathederal where the all the French kings were crowned. 80% destroyed in World War I, the town was extensively rebuilt in the 1920's in an Art Deco style.
Reims, together with Épernay and Ay, is one of the great centers of Champagne production. Many of the largest Champagne producing houses, referred to as les grandes marques, have their headquarters in Reims. Most are open for champagne tasting and tours by appointment only. Champagne is aged in the many chalk caves and tunnels, some originating in the Roman period, under Reims.
The centre is small and easily walkable, mainly predestrianised, with a number of interesting squares and beautiful arcades with charming little shops.
Many French people considered the Remois (the residents) to be snobbish and unfriendly – they even say "they are more Parisian than the Parisians". I have lived here for eight months, and find them very approachable, if not exactly the easiest to make friends with, but still emminently likeable.
Access
If you're coming from the UK by train you'll probably get the Eurostar from London to Gare du Nord. Problem number 1. your train to Reims leaves from the Gare de l'Est. You could try to get a cab, this will involve a half hour queue only to be turned away by a charming French shrug of the sholuders by your Parisien taxi driver, as it's not worth his while. The walk will take a maximum of ten minutes, even with the heaviest luggage. If you fancy christening your vacances, there's a good zinc bar/ tabac on the corner, but be sure not to miss your train!
Now the TGV has arrived the journey is only 45 minutes for a direct traget( if you catch a slow train -called Corail- it's 2 hours and a half.) Some trains stop also in Epernay, so start to get ready.
Arrival at Reims station is not going to be the highlight of trip so you'll be looking to move on as soon as possible. There is one of Reims' only taxi ranks outside the station, but it's not manned very often. A better bet is the taxi office just across from the station exit. If your French isn't great just thrust your hotel reservation over the counter and smile. You won't win any friends but at least you'll get to where you want to be!
Transportation
Whilst the centre is fairly compact and easy to get around by foot, if you want to go further afield then try the buses. They're very reliable, run regularly, and despite local complaints, I think, good value at €1 to go anywhere. If you intend to use them a lot buy a carnet of 10 tickets for €8.60. Tickets can be bought on the bus but make sure you have the right change, unless you want to learn some interesting words from your friendly bus driver. Reims Public transportation website
Taxis are reasonable (about €2 a mile) but you can't hail them and they have to be booked in advance, which can be difficult if your French isn't above conversational level.
Now that the TGV has arrived a day trip to Paris is possible. Be aware you have to book in advance, but at least you can do this in English online at SNCF.com.
Activities and Sightseeing
- Reims Cathedral (Notre-Dame de Reims) – the French equivalent, somewhat, for England's Westminster Abbey, the Cathedral at Reims was the church in which numerous French monarchs were officially crowned. Reims is one of the later Gothic cathedrals and renowned for its height. There is a fine interior west facade with carvings of Biblical scenes; some fine 13c stained glass in the high windows of the nave and choir; and windows by Marc Chagall (in the eastern chapel) and the two local artists Jacques and Brigitte Simon. The south transept window by Jacques Simon shows themes linked with champagne including a portrait of the monk who invented it, Dom Perignon.
- The Palace of Tau was the archbishop's palace and retains a 13c Palatine chapel.
- The Porte de Mars – a large late-Roman period triumphal arch
- The Hotel de la Salle – a fine Renaissance mansion
- The so-called Hotel des Contes de Champagne is a fine Gothic merchant's house.
- The Town Hall dates from the 17th century. Behind it on the right is a fine art nouveau building originally for Mumm champagne, with mosaics showing the champagne making process.
- Saint Remi Basilica, a Romanesque church some way south of the centre of town.
- The many champagne houses and the chalk caves that are used to store and age the champagne. Most of the houses have several guided tours throughout the day in a variety of languages for a small fee, which usally includes a sample at the end of the tour. It is a good idea to call ahead to ensure that you don't miss the tour you are interested in.
Museums
Reims has a number of great museums, in particular the Musee de Beaux Arts and the War Museum, but as they all cost, visiting soon eats into your budget. The best thing about Reims is there is always something going on for free. I have lived here eight months and I don't think one month has passed without a festival or carnival.
The best by far is the Christmas Fair which fills the Place d'Erlon with a huge number of specialist stalls, great for pre-Christmas shopping.
If you like classic cars, this is a mecca, in eight months I've seen four classic rallies here.
For the kids in the summer, the traders set up a free, supervised area in the Place d'Erlon, it even has some English speaking guardians.
For a cheaper time, head down to the Place de la Republique early on a Saturday morning (7am -1 pm) to look around the market, fish, meat, cheese and bric a brac at reasonable prices, unless they realise you're a tourist! Don't feel like shopping, just wander about and soak up the atmosphere.
Reims has a vibrant theatre life. There is the main Theatre (Opera and Culture), La Comedie (20th century drama and film art), and further out the town, La Cartonnerie (alternative, performance and music acts). It also has the Opera cinema which plays English language films, which one should note are marked V.O. on the board outside.
There is a free listing guide available in most bars and supermarkets called 'Sortie' which comes out on Thursday, which lists all the live gigs and cinema times.
Shopping
Reims has all the usual stores you'd expect in any major town. The Galeries Lafayette has menswear, womenswear, kidswear and a food hall downstairs, which sells English food at exorbitant prices if you feel homesick.
There is a small shopping centre, Espace d'Erlon, wh
ich has a Monoprix downstairs, not a bad bet to buy your Champagne at prices that aren't inflated as they are in some tourist shops. It also has a FNAC (the French equivilent of HMV) which sells CDs/ DVDs/ and Books, including English ones.
If you feel the need to buy English or American newspapers, there is a news stand opposite the Gluepot (the English Pub) on the Place d'Erlon. The guy who runs it is extremely good fun and revels in the chance of speaking English.
Restaurants
The Place d'Erlon is the near beating heart of the city ( It's not exactly a hotbed of activity!) . There are many great places to eat here from cheap burger bars (Q, a Belgian McD's) to Anglo-Irish bars, the best for food being the James Joyce, to the very expensive, but very good Brasserie Flo, on the corner near the station. If you go around the corner onto Boulevard Foch you will find some good mid-price eateries. The restaurant in the Hotel d'Univers is supposed to be very good, according to my local friends, but looks very intimidating from the outside. The Cote, nearer the square, is cheaper and is just as good for food. The real gem worth finding is the Aux Coteaux, mainly a pizzeria but with some nice mains as well.
If you are up by the Theatre there's quite a nice cheap Chinese cafe opposite, and next to the only McDonalds in the centre of town.
There is only one Indian restaurant in town, the Taj Mahal, on the Rue de Vesle. reasonable value, reasonable food, but Ghandi hardly going to rise from his grave to eat there. If you go further down the Rue de Vesle you come to the Place d'Erlon. The Irish pub, The Kilberry, does food, I'm saying no more. Pizzerias here are a lot cheaper than the centre of town. All seem to charge a flat rate of E4.50 for a large pizza and the Mexicanne at the Calabraise could easily pass for Pizza Express' American Hot. They also do good mains as well. If you can't find it try the Dolce Vitae, opposite the Taj Mahal.
For better ethnic food look down the road at the side of the Opera cinema for a selection of good, cheaper, French and Ethnic restaurants ( Chinese, Mexican and French).
Real top end recommendations say if you've just sold your granny for cash try the Hotel National at the station end corner of the Place d'Erlon.
Another option is to buy a baguette at one of the many patisseries and sit by one of the fountains and watch the world go by. If this is your option try the Petit Fours, a small kiosk off the Place d'Erlon, past the Opera cinema and across the lights, it's bright yellow, you can't miss it!
Nightlife
Champagne of course !
There are 2 Irish bars (The Blackface and the James Joyce) and 1 English bar, The Gluepot, in the centre, the Place d'Erlon, but if you go to the far end, past the Opera cinema, turn right and head down the Rue de Vesle for 1/4 of a mile you come to Place de Stalingrad. There are two great places here, The Kilberry, an Irish pub where all the French drink. It's a lot cheaper than in the centre and, to my mind, has a better atmosphere. It also has lots of free music and good promotions. The manager, Mike, is generally friendly and the staff and locals are very friendly. Definitely one to watch the Rugby in. For the quieter drink, try the Stalingrad on the corner. It's a traditional French Tabac, has limited food at lunchtime. The owner, Patrick, is an English speaking Jazz fan and there is normally live Jazz upstairs on a Thursday night.
If you are determined to hit the Palce d'Erlon, the 3 brasseries is worth a look, it's a 3 bar micro brewery. The Gaulois on the far corner has a nice area to sit around allday. The drinks are reasonable, and they do excellent set menus. The Gin Pamp, opposite the Opera cinema is always packed and one of the better live music venues. If money is no object and style is imperative, try the L'apostrophe, half way down the Place d'Erlon is not cheap but beautiful inside. If you really are on the budget trail, try the Hotel Victoria for the cheapest drink in the square. Abdel the night time waiter is Moroccan and speaks excellent English, and always has a cheery joke.
If you venture as far as the Porte de Mars, nip across to the Bar d'Anvers, across the Place de Republique, nothing out of the ordinary, but you may get involved in an interesting conversation, if you speak French and sit at the bar.
Lodging
See the Listing of the Hotels in Reims
Reasonably priced hotels off the Place d'Erlon include Grand Hotel du Nord and Hotel Cristal. Most of these hotels have a reasonably priced deal with the underground car park in Place d'Erlon, but remember to ask for a ticket at entrance to the car park and don't use your credit card, or you will end up paying twice.
The cheapest place to stay in the Place d'Erlon is the Hotel Victoria. It's family run by the Camus and has been since the war. Don't be put of by the gaudy placards outside, or the cramped bar/ reception, the rooms are large, clean, en-suite and all come with TV (French), an added advantage is free wi-fi in the bar/reception. The bar is also the cheapest place to drink in the Place d'Erlon.
If you're backpacking take a taxi from the station to C.I.S (pronounced CES) It's basic, communal kitchen and showers, but it's cheap and clean, but can get noisy if large groups are in. The bad news is it's non smoking and no booze is allowed in the place (officially!)