Pays-de-la-Loire’s territory stretches over 12,390 square miles––the size of Maryland––at the base of the Brittany peninsula and is France’s second leading agricultural region. A third of its 3.2 million people is under 25, making it a young region. The major cities either straddle the rivers that feed into the Loire or lie along a stretch of Atlantic Coast.
The French Maine.
Abutting Normandy and Brittany is the old province of Maine that includes parts of today’s Sarthe and Mayenne départements. The Sarthe River meanders through peaceful woodlands and fields dotted with picturesque small towns. One of these, Malicorne-sur-Sarthe, possesses an 11th- century church, a 17th-century castle and a tradition of producing fine ceramics that dates back to 1740. In Sablé-sur-Sarthe, a more ornate chateau now houses the National Library’s restoration and bookbinding workshops. A few miles upstream is the Solesmes Abbey. Founded in the 11th century, it has been destroyed and rebuilt many times but has kept its splendid 16th-century sculptures. Today, it is a world-renowned center for Gregorian chant and the Benedictine monks’ services are open to the public.
Home of the French Car Industry.
Maine’s thriving provincial capital, Le Mans, offers considerably more than its world-famous car race. The old quarter includes Roman walls, a 12th -century cathedral with magnificent stained-glass windows, medieval houses and Renaissance mansions on winding cobble-stoned streets. The city is the birthplace of the French car industry: in 1875 the Bollée brothers built a car that made the 140-mile trip to Paris in 18 hours! Also pioneers in aviation, they invited Wilbur Wright to make one of his first flights at Le Mans in 1908. Since 1923, however, the city has been most closely associated with the yearly “24 Heures du Mans†race, which is run on a difficult circuit that serves during the rest of the year as an automotive testing ground.
To the west, the Mayenne River valley can be either majestic or untamed. Its largest city, Laval, has preserved its historic narrow streets, half-timbered houses and beautiful bridge whose three arches span the Mayenne River. Nearby is the site of Jublains, an ancient Roman capital with the superbly preserved ruins of a fortress, temple, amphitheater and baths.
This is horse country, and home to one of France’s national stud farms, the Haras National de l’Isle-Briand, where international breeders meet at its yearly race. South of Laval, the Château de Craon is a magnificent example of 18th century architecture surrounded by a 100-acre park. Still the property of the original family, the castle’s guestrooms and gardens are open to the public during summers.
Home of the National Cavalry School.
It is often said that in Anjou, time seems to stand still. It occupies a fertile alluvial plain where fruit, vegetables and vineyards thrive. On the banks of the Maine River (formed by the confluence of the Sarthe and Mayenne rivers), Angers is a superb city whose majestic St. Maurice Cathedral and Château, both built in the 13th century, tower over parks and gardens ablaze with flowers in season. Housed in one of the castle’s galleries is the Apocalypse Tapestry, a series of 76 biblical scenes that were commissioned by Duke Louis I of Anjou in 1373. This impressive work has inspired some modern artists to work with textiles and a medieval building now houses the Museum of Contemporary Tapestry dedicated to Jean Lurçat, who revived the art in the 20th century. On the banks of the Loire, a fortress with graceful pointed towers dominates Saumur. The city is forever associated with France’s National Cavalry School and its renowned Cadre Noir (Black Squad), which represents the highest level of achievement in horsemanship, gives performances in dressage and jumping.
Taking a Peak at Private Castles. A tour of Anjou, however, would not be complete without a visit to one of the privately owned châteaux, which have nothing to envy their eastern neighbors. The Château du Lude started out as an 11th-century fortress on the banks of the Loir River and is now a beautiful example of early French Renaissance architecture and interior decoration (do not miss the 2,000-volume library and vaulted 15th-century kitchen!). An elegant terrace bordered by a stone balustrade leads to gardens and ponds that make up the stately grounds. Only 10 miles north of Angers, the Château du Plessis-Bourré gives a good idea of 15th-century feudal life. Enclosed by a wide moat, the castle remains in its original condition despite many upheavals: the French Revolution, during which its owner was beheaded in Angers; World War I, when it was requisitioned for use as a hospital; and World War II, when it was used as a temporary refuge for the American Ambassador to Poland. Downstream on the Loire, the Château de Serrant is a moated 16th -century mansion with a refined interior. A superb Renaissance staircase leads to reception rooms that contain exceptional furniture, paintings, sculptures and Flemish tapestries. The 20,000-volume library includes some treasures and the 1,500-square foot kitchen is a testament to the art of dining. Near Saumur, the Royal Fontevraud Abbey dates back to 1100 and remains the largest group of monastic buildings in France. The church houses 13th-century recumbent figures of the Plantagenets, representing Henry II Count of Anjou and King of England, his wife Eleanor of Aquitaine and their son, Richard the Lionhearted.
Building the World’s Largest Ship.
On the Atlantic coast, the Pays Nantais area encompasses the Loire estuary and a stretch of the Atlantic coast between Brittany and Charente. The region’s capital, Nantes, is a historic town that has preserved its medieval heritage. The Château des Ducs de Bretagne, birthplace of the Duchess Anne who married two French kings, overlooks the medieval district of Bouffay, whose tiny streets been made into pedestrian promenades. Along the Loire, magnificent residences with sculpted facades and wrought-iron balconies bear witness to Nantes’ opulent 18th-century lifestyle. Since 1980, the city has been “twinned†with Seattle, Washington in a very active partnership. Closer to the Atlantic, the shipyard of Saint-Nazaire––Chantiers de l’Atlantique a> has been the birthplace of the great transatlantic liners and cruise ships for the past 150 years. Today, it is putting the finishing touches on the “Queen Mary 2†and visitors may tour the construction site of the world’s largest ship. North of the Loire estuary, the beaches of La Baule and Le Croisic are favorites of vacationers. Southwest of Nantes the 20,000-acre Lac de Grand-Lieu has been declared a nature preserve and is home to over 200 species of birds. In the nearby Planète Sauvage (Wild Planet) park 200 animals roam freely through wooded hills, lakes and ponds.
Sandy Beaches and Salt Marshes. South of the Loire estuary lies the Vendée département. Best known for its inviting expanses of golden sand and the Atlantic surf, Les-Sables-d’Olonne is a 19th-century resort that grew up around a medieval fishing port. Off the coast, the long, thin isle of Noirmoutier is blessed with a mild climate that allows mimosas to bloom. The island has been linked to the mainland by a bridge to ease the transport of its resources: shellfish and salt from its 250-acre marshes. Inland, an 85-acre theme park, Le Puy-du-Fou, evokes the past of the region: on its grounds are the remains of a 15th -century castle that serves as an entrance to the Musée de la Vendée. On summer nights, it comes alive in a dazzling show that involves 850 actors and horsemen, special effects, fireworks and laser lighting displays. The park also offers aviaries, animal farms and an arboretum.
The region includes five départements:
• Loire-Atlantique (44)
• Maine-et-Loire (49)
• Mayenne (53)
• Sarthe (72)
• Vendée (85)
Main cities:
• Nantes. The region’s capital is the birthplace of the 19th-century writer Jules Verne and of Audubon, the American naturalist.
• Angers. Today, the former capital of Anjou is a lively university town that is proud of its historic past.
• Le Mans. Only 54 minutes from Paris by TGV train, this prosperous city is home to a thriving insurance industry.
• Saint-Nazaire. Its shipyards are building the Cunard Lines’ “Queen Elisabeth 2â€, scheduled for launching in December 2003.
• Cholet. Surrounded by forests and lakes, this city is a thriving industrial town with a strong tradition of fine textiles.
• Laval. The main city in the Mayenne département is the birthplace of the painter Douanier Rousseau.
• La-Roche-sur-Yon. Vendée’s main town was built by Napoléon as a stronghold on a plateau overlooking the Yon River.
• Saumur. Anjou’s second city is famous for its cavalry school, sparkling wine and military tank museum.