Pantheon

• The essence of the monument

At the summit of Saint Genevieve’s mount, at the heart of the Latin Quarter amongst a cluster of schools and universities, the Panthéon dominates Paris. For almost the entire 19th Century, well before the Eiffel Tower, Sacré Coeur de Montparnasse and the Montparnasse Tower, the Panthéon was the first building that visitors arriving in Paris from the provinces or from abroad would see, and from which it was possible to take in the entire city in one complete and exceptional view. The Basilica of Saint Genevieve, which became the Panthéon under the French Revolution, and was formerly a lighthouse and a cave, is as much a majestic piece of late 18th Century architecture as a living emblem and witness to the history of France for over 250 years. The Panthéon is considered a model of design, combining, according to a scholar of the Age of the Enlightenment, «the lightness of construction of gothic edifices with the purity and the magnificence of Greek architecture». A masterpiece of the architect Soufflot, the Panthéon was part of the urban renewal of Paris, which makes it an essential feature of a tour of the capital’s monuments. Its position at the summit of Saint Genevieve’s mount makes it a point of reference in the city and is still considered by all as the soul of the Latin Quarter. Famous for its dome, an admirable blend of balance and harmony, this building is also well-known for its interior décor. The result of contradictory functions assigned to the edifice since the Revolution, the décor is a mixture of Christian and Republican symbolism in immense ideological confusion. As a church, a temple of humanity or a national basilica according to the regime in power, the paintings on the sides of the nave reflect in the intensity of their message the artistic syncretism of the Third Republic (especially those by Puvis de Chavanne).

Beyond the impression of supremacy radiated by the building, the Panthéon has today become above all a republican necropolis where the history of France blends with the world of writers, scientists, generals, churchmen and politicians. So having passed the peristyle at the threshold, visitors can only stand in awe of the solemnity of the space, stunned by the immensity of the interior. Only the swing of the pendulum in the centre of the building, a replica of the experiment carried out by Foucault in 1851 to study the earth’s roundness, seems to stir the deep calm. The crypt houses the tombs of more than 70 personages from Voltaire and Jean-Jacques Rousseau to Alexandre Dumas, who was interred on 28th November 2002.

 

• The Monument

When Jacques-Germain Soufflot built this edifice, which is a real Neoclassic style manifesto, he wanted to combine "the lightness of the Gothic architecture and the magnificence of the Greek architecture". By this way he answered Louis XV’s wish of glorifying with dignity the monarchy through saint Geneviève, the saint of Paris, to whom this monument was dedicated.
Laicized in 1791, it became the national Pantheon. During the 19th century, its function was either religious, either patriotic, depending on the political regime. Under the 3rd Republic, it was turned into an edifice devoted to the memory of famous men, on the occasion of Victor Hugo’s funeral (1885).

 

 

Visit

In a neo-classical style, the façade offers a majestic peristyle inspired by ancient temples. Its side walls, decorated with garlands of carved plants, provide a more austere image, in keeping with the funereal role given to the monument during the Revolution, when its windows were obscured. The monumental look of the dome, which rests on a Corinthian column, was Soufflot’s solution to his desire to equal the majesty of the grand basilicas of the era.

The low relief on the pediment by David d’Angers is an allegory to the glory of great men. Some civil personages can be recognised on the left and military figures on the right, such as Voltaire, Rousseau, Bonaparte, etc.

The peristyle

Entering under the peristyle, two low-reliefs can be seen dominating the side doors. Commissioned during the Revolution, they illustrate, on the left, “Public Instruction”, a work by Lesueur, and on the right “Patriotic Devotion”, by Chaudet.

In the centre, three other low-reliefs from 1837 by Nanteuil replace those of the revolutionary period: “Sciences and Arts” and “The Magistrature” flank “The Apotheosis of the hero who died for his country” which is situated above the main door. In this image, history is symbolised by a winged figure crowned with laurel branches, whilst a sceptre topped with a cockerel – a symbol of France – represents the country.

The North gallery crypt

This part of the crypt is the most recent section of the Panthéon. Jean Moulin, a hero of the Resistance, was the first person to be entombed in this gallery during a ceremony that was to become famous for the grandiloquent speech made by André Malraux, who is now also buried in this part of the crypt. The North gallery also contains the tombs of people whose ashes were transferred here during the Bicentenary of the Revolution, such as Monge, Abbé Gregoire and Condorcet.

In the first vault are the tombs of the physicians Pierre and Marie Curie, the latter being the only woman to be entombed here, with the exception of Sophie Berthelot, who is interred here in her capacity as the wife of the chemist Marcelin Berthelot.

The choir and the apse

In the choir is a sculpture by Sicard dedicated to the glory of “La Convention Nationale”, on the sides of which inscriptions in the stone pay homage to over five hundred writers who died for France during the two World Wars, including Apollinaire, Péguy and Desnos.

The décor of the apse offers a striking juxtaposition of secular and religious subjects, reflecting the changing history of the building. Thus, a painting by Detaille glorifying the Republic is displayed alongside Hébert’s mosaic depicting “Christ showing the angel of France the destiny of her people”, which adorns the vault of the apse.

The transept crossing

From this central part of the building visitors can admire the décor of the pendentives with painted allegories by Gérard, and discover “The Apotheosis of Saint Genevieve”, a work by Gros, which is visible through the opening in the first cupola and painted on the second, taking you on a historical tour of France from Clovis to Louis XVIII.

Swinging in the centre of the building is Foucault’s pendulum, a scientific experiment installed by Léon Foucault in 1851. This sphere weighing 47kg suspended on a line 67 metres long proves that the earth rotates on itself. Despite the visual impression, the sphere does not revolve. It always swings on the same axis, and it is the frame, and hence the ground beneath it, that are turning on themselves.

The East gallery crypt

A ceremonial staircase built during the Empire and two spiral staircases lead to the entrance to the crypt, where 73 illustrious figures are interred. Facing the door, an urn containing Gambetta’s heart stands over a plaque engraved to the memory of soldiers who died in the war of 1870. In a wide nave with imposing Doric columns, the tombs of Voltaire and Rousseau lie opposite each other. A statue of Voltaire sculpted by Houdon is positioned in front of his tomb.

The West gallery crypt

Burial vaults line both sides of a central space dedicated to the victims of the Revolution in 1830. On the right, four vaults contain th
e tombs of civil, military and religious dignitaries from the Empire retracing the main events of the Napoleonic era: Portalis and Tronchet, who drew up the French Civil Code; Bougainville, navigator and the author of travelogues; and famous generals, heroes of the battle of Austerlitz. On the left are the tombs of prominent figures from the 19th Century: writers, politicians, scientists etc.

Vault XXIV contains the tombs of illustrious writers: Hugo, Zola and Dumas, paying homage to their respective combats. In the final vault lie the remains of Jean Jaurès, an icon of French socialism, who was assassinated in 1914.

The North gallery crypt

This part of the crypt is the most recent section of the Panthéon. Jean Moulin, a hero of the Resistance, was the first person to be entombed in this gallery during a ceremony that was to become famous for the grandiloquent speech made by André Malraux, who is now also buried in this part of the crypt. The North gallery also contains the tombs of people whose ashes were transferred here during the Bicentenary of the Revolution, such as Monge, Abbé Gregoire and Condorcet.

In the first vault are the tombs of the physicians Pierre and Marie Curie, the latter being the only woman to be entombed here, with the exception of Sophie Berthelot, who is interred here in her capacity as the wife of the chemist Marcelin Berthelot.

Lodging

See the listing of the Hotels near the Pantheon

Practical information

Panthéon
Place du Panthéon
75005 Paris

Going there

Métro: line 10
Bus: lines 21, 27, 38, 82, 84, 85 and 89
RER: line B
By car: boulevard Saint-Michel and rue Soufflot

Localisation

Centre of Paris, near the boulevard Saint-Michel and the Luxembourg gardens