Lyon is the second largest city in France, located in the Rhone-Alpes region, some 450 km south of Paris. Lyon is known as a gastronomic city with a vibrant cultural scene.
Access
By plane
Lyon’s Saint-Exupéry Airport (old name: Satolas), some 25 km east of Lyon, is linked to the main cities of France and the world. The Satobus service will take you by bus from the airport to central Lyon in 30-50 minutes and cost around €8.60 (€6.50 if you are under 24). If returning, save yourself time by asking for a return at the Satobus desk in the airport (buy before you board). Taxis to Lyon from the airport cost around €75.
By train
Lyon has four train stations:
- St. Paul is in the heart of the city, five minutes from hotel de ville over the Saone. Serves regional destinations.
- Perrache — One of the two main stations of Lyon serving national and regional destinations. It is only a short walk to Place Bellecour along an interesting pedestrian shopping street (Rue Victor Hugo).
- Part-Dieu — The other main train station serving national and regional destinations. This station is close to a large shopping mall and is in the heart of Lyon’s business center. It has good transportation links to the rest of the city by tram bus and metro.
- Saint-Exupéry (the station is outside the city and serves the airport).
Lyon is linked by TGV (fast trains) to Paris (Two hours) and Marseille (Two hours).
By car
Lyon is a major automotive hub for central and southern France:
- A6 to the north — Paris.
- A7 to the south — Marseille, Nice, Spain, Italy.
- A43 to the east — Grenoble, the Alps, Northern Italy.
- A47 to the west — Saint-Étienne, Clermont-Ferrand, Massif Central, west of France.
- A42 to the northeast — Bourg-en-Bresse, Geneva (Switzerland), Germany.
Transportation
By bus, tram, subway or bicycle
Lyon’s public transport, TCL, consists of an extensive network of buses, subway (four lines, 38 stations), and tramway (three lines, 62 stations). The metro is efficient, relatively inexpensive, and thus a way of easily moving around. A single ticket costs €1.60 (a common ticket for bus, metro, and tram, valid for one hour after first use, but no return), whereas a daily pass is for €4.40. Group tickets are also available, so contact the tourism office.
Lyon has also two cable-car lines. These are accessible from the Vieux Lyon metro station and provide access to the Roman theatres and Basilica respectively.
- Public transport maps can be found online simple map or detailed map. Or, you can get a free print version of the last one in any tcl office you find in the main stations. Just ask!
Since May 2005, Lyon also has a public bicycle service which allows travellers, after registering a credit card, to pick up, and drop cycles to and from points around the city. You may need a credit card (Visa/MC/French CB) to make use of the service. The prices are very cheap: €1 for the “velo’v” card, then €1/hour of use, with the first half hour of each use free. Check that the bike you want is okay or you could have bad surprises. Note that the system only works with a European credit/debit card. Otherwise the transaction is aborted, no explanations given on the terminal. The terminals have very limited English and that makes it a rough start, but once you get to know the system its great. There are so many bikes that it can sometimes be a problem to return them.
By car
Traffic is dense. Avoid driving within the city if you can. The minimum age to rent a car is 21 and an additional charge may be required for drivers under 25 years old. There are car hire places at the major stations. Best to hire from Part-Dieu, as the subsequent navigation is much easier. For the city center, look for signs reading “Presqu’île”.
Sightseeing and Activities
Landmarks
- Theatres Romains de Fourviere, a Roman theater complex beside the Musée de la Civilisation gallo-romaine.
- Tête d’Or Park, including zoo and botanical garden.
- Basilique de Fourvière (church) , nice view of the city.
- Tour de Fourvière.
- Place Bellecour — Europe’s largest completely clear public square.
- Place des Terreaux.
Museums and Galleries
- Palais Saint-Pierre / Musée des Beaux Arts, open daily 10AM-6PM, except Tue and public holidays, Fri open 10:30AM-6PM, partial closures 12PM-2:15PM (see website for details), ticket office closes 5:30PM, admission for adults €6, reduced €4, under 18 and some others free.
- Musée de la Résistance (museum of the Resistance during the Second Wold War). Often holds exhibitions (mostly photography). 14 avenue Berthelot, 69007 Lyon. Tel: 04 72 73 33 54, Fax: 04 72 73 32 98. Open 9AM-5:30PM. Closed on Mondays, Tuesdays and holidays. Fees: €3. Free for children under 18.
- Musées des Arts Décoratifs and Musée des Tissus, 34 rue de la Charité 69002, Lyon. Tel: 04 78 38 42 00, Fax: 04 72 40 25 12, musees@lyon.cci.fr. Open 10AM-12PM and 2PM-5:30PM. Closed on Mondays and holidays. Fees (can also be used for the Musée des Tissus): Adults: €4.58. Groups (10 adults minimum) €3.81. Students €2.29. Free for children under 18.
- Musée historique de Lyon et Musée de la Marionnette.
- Musée de l’Imp
rimerie — Visit it only if you’re a printing specialist, the collection is important, but it is presented in a totally outdated way. To avoid. 13 rue de la Poulaillerie, 69002 Lyon. Tel: 04 78 37 65 98, Fax: 04 78 38 25 95. museeimp@lyon.asi.fr. Open Wed-Sun 9:30AM-12PM and 2PM-6PM. Closed on holidays. Fees: €4, students in groups: €2. - Institut Lumière: 25 rue du Premier Film, 69008 Lyon. Tel: 04 78 78 18 95
- Open from 11AM-6:30PM, Closed Jan 1, May 1, and Dec 25, and on most Mondays (except bank holiday Mondays). Fees: €6 (adults) or €5 (younger than 18 or students).
- Musée d’Histoire naturelle: 28 Boulevard des Belges, Tel: 04 72 69 05 00, Fax: 04 78 94 62 25. Open Wed-Sun 1PM-6PM. Fees: €3.
- Musée d’Art contemporain.
- Musée de la Civilisation gallo-romaine — The second largest museum in France, it has all kinds of things relating to Rhone-alps history. A free visit to the Roman theatres may be just as interesting for those not into the details.
Parks and Gardens
- Parc des Hauteurs — Little known park tucked behind Fourvière close to the large tower. Contains aerial adventure course, ski slope, and fantastic views towards the Beaujolais.
The city
- Get lost in the traboules. These intra-building passages link inner courtyards with the streets and are found mainly in “Vieux Lyon” (old Lyon) and on the Croix Rousse hill. They were first made for the use of the “canuts” (silk workers of the late 18th to mid 19th century) so that the pieces of fabric could be moved from workshop to workshop without being spoiled by rain. They also were used as hiding places during the German occupation by the resistance members. Certain traboules are not open to the public, because of security measures, but the city has made a point of keeping the most beautiful ones open during daytime hours.
- Visit the Old town (Vieux Lyon), which features well preserved medieval and renaissance buildings, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
- Go on a guided tour of the Croix-Rousse or Vieux Lyon. English speaking guides. Info from the tourist office at Bellcour
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Shopping
- La Part-Dieu is the biggest shopping mall in France.
- Rue de la République, wide pedestrian street north of Bellecour.
- Rue Victor Hugo, Brand names and tourist traps south of Bellacour.
Restaurants
In the traditional bouchons lyonnais, you can usually eat and drink at a good price. Restaurants have their menus with prices displayed outside. The region around Lyon is generally considered to have some of the best food in all of France. For vegetarians, though, the choice might be limited.
Budget
- Chez Mounier — A traditional bouchon (restaurant) with good food for a very reasonable price (a complete menu for €10). Located on the south-east street of the Place Bellecour.
- Otherwise, kebab shops abound, all with the same price: €4 for a kebab, €3.50 for chicken or vegetarian. Look especially near Place des Terreaux (metro Hotel de Ville).
- El Loco Latino, 15 minutes across the Rhone from Hotel de Ville. Latino bar with low budget food. The day menu is €7.50 and the empanada is €4.
- Wallace Whisky Bar, five minutes across the Saone from Hotel de Ville. Mixture of French and British food. Fish ‘n chips, bacon and egg, etc. Prices from €7.
Mid-range
- Le Bistrot de St-Paul – Has a michellin “bib gourmant” with good reason. Has 2 menus (20 and 31 euros) that a great value. Friendly service.
- Le Layon — Excellent French cuisine, situated in the center of the old-town, with a great terrace. Typical price €15 — €25. The grenouilles are fantastic.
- Brasserie Georges, 30, cours de Verdun (Located behind Perarache Station), +33 (0)4 72565456,. An exceptional traditional Brasserie, serving traditional food with an Alsatian leaning in a fine interior. A real Art Deco treat. Founded in 1836, with a tradition of high quality service. It also contains a brewery and bar and the interior is worth a look even if you don’t want to eat. from €25 to 35.La Resto, 20, rue Mulet (Just off rue de la Republique). Very nice little restaurant with great Lyon food and very lovely decor. Very Reasonable wine prices as well.
Splurge
- Le Nord — One of Paul Bocuse’s four brasseries in Lyon, located in the 9eme arrondisement, near the shores of the Saone river. Exquisite meals from €35 onwards.
- Auberge du Pont de Collonges — Paul Bocuse’s restaurant, one of the most famous restaurants in France. 40 Quai de la Plage. Tel 04 72 42 90 90, Fax 04 72 27 85 87. From €100 onward.
Nightlife
Lyon offers some nice nightlife. A good starting point is Place des Terreaux and then upwards towards the Croix Rousse. In the streets that climb the hill there are many nice places.
- Albion, 12 rue Sainte Catherine (Place Terreau). Beer, whiskey and rock. “The best pub quiz in Lyon” – Special Music Quiz once a month.
- Becs de Jazz — Nice jazz club open during the weekend until 1AM, with live jazz and great atmosphere.
- Phoebus, 22 rue Pouteau. Pub with nice live music (African, reggae).
- L’Abreuvoir, rue de st catherine, just above Terreaux. There you can join some crazy French listening to crazy French music. Definitively an experience, though not everyone’s cup of tea.
- El Loco Latino, 32, rue Pasteur, next to the Guillotière metro station. A small, but lively Latin bar, open daily until 1AM.
- Johnny Walsh’s, near the Saint Georges Church. Nice, authentic Irish pub with good music and some live performances.
- The New Albion, Rue St. Catherine. Scottish pub. Student friendly. Live music most weekends.
- Wallace, Place Saint Paul. Cool whiskey bar with a wide range of drinks.
- St. James and The Smoking Dog near the Place Saint Paul.
- L’Amsterdam, 21 Quai Romain Rolland, nice dutch pub.
- Le Perroquet Bourré (The Drunk Parrot), 18 Rue Saint Catherine. Cheap rum, the inside is decorated as a pirate ship.
At the quai Albert Augagneur is another centre of Lyon nightlife. Along the Rhone river are several out of duty riverboats (péniches) that serve as nightclubs or bars.
- Sirius, 21 quai Augagneur. Live events almost every day of the week. The weekends party on two levels. Nice
.
- Q-Boat, 21 Quai Augagneur. Another boat, here the hype crowd will feel at home.
- Marquise, Quai Augagneur. Here you get nice alternative hip-hop, retro soul, etc. Sometimes theatre performances.
- River Side, 5 rue St Paul. This is one of the rare places where they play rock music in Lyon. Admission after midnight. Only open on weekends and before holidays.
Lodging
Have a look at the list of the Hotels in Lyon
- Hotel Sofitel Lyon Bellecour, 20, quai Gailleton (2nd arrondissement), . Luxury hotel close to the famous Place Bellecour. Large number of meeting rooms for convention.
Nearby
- The car museum of Rochetaillée has a very nice collection of modern and old cars. The main attraction of the museum is the armored car of Adolf Hitler. Château Rochetaillée, 69270 Rochetaillée-sur-Saône, Tel: 04 78 22 18 80, Fax: 04 78 22 69 60. Open 9AM-7PM daily in July and August, 9AM-6PM the rest of the year. Closed on Christmas and New Year. Fees: Adults €5, free for children under 18.
- Perouges is a small village 30 minutes outside of Lyon. Its buildings all date to the middle ages and it’s a popular weekend destination for people who live in Lyon.
- The bird park of Villars-les-Dombes.
- Vienne and its international jazz festival.
- The Swiss border and the city of Geneva are just over two hours away by train.
- Annecy, the Venice de Savoie is about 2 hours away a and makes a nice daytrip.
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